5 Top Luxury Footwear Retailers That Ruled Paris and Milan + Trends You’ll See Everywhere for Spring 23

After a busy season of European collections in Milan and Paris, top retailers give their thoughts on their favorite collections, setting trends and new talent to watch.

Rickie De Sole, Womenswear and Editorial Director, Nordstrom

Top Collections:

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“Gucci had a solid offering this season with something for just about everyone – from coveted crystal mules to beaded sandals to pointed white summer boots. The most talked about Loewe shoethe deflated balloons caught everyone’s eye, but the real star was the new pump.

Key trends:

“The pump is back. We’ve seen designers update the classic with new toe shapes and colors. We are seeing a transition from sneakers to softer flats like ballet flats and simple heeled sandals. Platforms are all the rage – from Y2K moments at Fendi to clog styles from Loewe to platform sandals at Dior and Chloé. Sculpted heels were new on the catwalks of Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Loewe and Dries Van Noten.

New names/emerging talents:

Maximilian [Davis] in Ferragamo. Rhuigi Villasenor in Bally is another one to watch.

Rickie De Sole says Gucci's Spring/Summer 23 shoe offering has

Rickie De Sole says Gucci’s Spring/Summer 23 footwear offering has “something for everyone.” – Credit: Getty Images for Gucci

Getty Images for Gucci

Helen David, Head of Luxury Merchandising, Kurt Geiger

Top Collections:

“René Caovilla was one of the strongest collections. D’Accori sings to his own tune in a colorful, fun and relevant way. Amina Muaddi is progressing well.

Key trends:

“Sculptural heels were everywhere, from the most discreet at Dries and Loewe to the powerful heels at D’Accori and Alaïa. Denim as a fabrication was seen in nearly every collection, from laid-back and cool at Coperni, Marine Serre and Paris Texas to embellished and dressy at Amina, Rene Caovilla and Bruno Frisoni. Mules have been around for a few seasons now but have firmly replaced the pump as their base. Schoolgirl vibes were prevalent, with Mary Janes and ballet slippers setting the stage for a big comeback. The western trend has spread from contemporary to designer. The tendency for women to want to wear very masculine oversized suits has spread to shoes with dandy oxfords. Finally, the flowers ruled the perch.

New names/emerging talents:

“I like Nensi Dojaka. This collection was understated, yet ultra-feminine, with rhinestones and floral embellishments. Carel is geek, fun and chic at the same time. Coperni mules, denim, platforms and sculptural heels were great.

Hollie Harding, Purchasing Manager, Non-Apparel, Browns

Top Collections:

“The much-loved ballerina trend continues in Spring 23, and [the style] was spotted at Khaite and Miu Miu. The other
end of the scale, we also saw a harder and heavier approach to footwear, especially for a spring season. Sharp points were seen at Givenchy and Courrèges, leather sock sandals at Miu Miu – and chunky Mary Janes at Prada were a personal favourite. It was a stark departure from the shiny satins and party shoes we saw last season.

Mary Janes on the Prada Spring 23 show. - Credit: Getty

Mary Janes on the Prada Spring 23 show. – Credit: Getty


New names/emerging talents:

“We are especially excited that our emerging ready-to-wear brands, Paula Canovas del Vas and KNWLS, are turning their attention to footwear.”

Roopa Patel, SVP, Fashion Director, Saks

Top Collections:

Bottega Veneta, Loewe, Chanel, Valentino and René Caovilla.

Key trends:

“Sculptural wedges and sandals with metal heels felt directional at Bottega Veneta, Loewe, Ferragamo and Dries van Noten. We saw a great range of innovative flatforms, including the anthurium floral pattern paired with a colored woven raffia bottom at Loewe, sporty lugged soles at Chloe and cut-out styles at AWAKE Mode. The platform continues to be a key trend, seen this season in new fabrications and treatments, including Lucite at Valentino, colorful patent leather at Paul Andrew and all-over crystal at Balenciaga.

New names/emerging talents:

Alevi Milano, Piferi and Nodaleto

Jodi Kahn, Vice President of Luxury Fashion, Neiman Marcus

Top Collections:

“The creativity and innovation at Loewe was incredible. Bottega Veneta delivered a remarkable collection and presentation. Distinguished accents such as the signature intrecciato weave and use of metals in updated feminine shapes with mixed heel heights are just what our client is looking for.

Key trends:

“Platform heels continue to evolve and impress, as seen in the Versace and Valentino collections. Simple heeled sandals are in fashion, along with jewels and embellishments at Roger Vivier, Sergio Rossi and Gianvito Rossi’s assortment of Chanel shoes literally sparkled.The collection included a variety of styles – all with clear crystal embellishments that are sure to add an element of glamor to any outfit.

Loewe's new ball shoes for Spring Summer 23. - Credit: Courtesy of Loewe

Loewe’s new ball shoes for Spring Summer 23. – Credit: Courtesy of Loewe

Courtesy of Loewe

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